Antarctica Post 1: Starting at the End of the World
The night before departing for Antarctica, I lay awake in bed trying to wrap my mind around the journey that was less than 12 hours away. I had purposely kept a majority of the anticipated experiences a mystery so that the Antarctic world could unfold on its own terms, without preconceptions. A small part of me knew that it would be difficult to be in such an incredible environment "on leash" so to speak. When I was in the Arctic 4 years ago, the mountains and glaciers beckoned with a barely irresistible allure that still finds its way into my dreams. Antarctica promised the same brand of magic; a world seldom trod, raw and wild, beautiful and malicious. Most appealing is the fact this remote land remains uncultivated by men's spiritual and industrial ambitions. Here is a land unchallenged by civilization, religion and nationalism. Even more so than the Arctic regions, wildlife is truly king. Without analyzing the details, I was ready to be a respectful guest to a realm barely defined by humans.
Before long, I was in transit on an epic series of flights that spanned half the globe. With each leg, I was reminded that I clearly to work for one of the coolest companies on Earth,
Natural Habitat Adventures. They were sending me on this monumental adventure on the company dollar, a perk that fits my style way more than casual Friday. Our
Antarctica expedition is one of our premier trips and I was psyched to have it as my inaugural company adventure.
When all the spine bending, leg cramping travel was done I found myself disembarking in the secluded city of
Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is a surprisingly developed city of nearly 70,000 people that defines itself as the city "del fin del mundo" -- at the end of the world. Summer was in full bloom and the lush trees and green grass offset the stark, snowy mountains that engulf the town like an overprotective mother. In the near-distance and across the harbor, the jagged peaks of Chile broke apart beams of setting sunlight, giving the city a shadowy, dreamy atmosphere. Having Ushuaia interpreted by my jet-lagged brain only added to the surreal effect.
First on the agenda was to connect to my longtime buddy
Paul, who had found his way on the trip through a series of fortunate suggestions, namely if he could get his butt down here and do a little work for
Natural Habitat Adventures (hereby known as NatHab) he could join the fun on the cheap. Before long, his flight was on the ground and we were reunited. Joining the mix was my fellow co-worker
Deborah and her friend Glenn, both Boulderites who were along for the same ride.
We had a free day to enjoy the city before boarding the Ocean Nova (our ship and home for the better part of 3 weeks). Not missing a beat, we were able to fit in a great mountain hike, a few awesome meals and a quick tour of the urban part of the city.
The eastern mountains of Ushuaia tower over the ships in the harbor. 
Ushuaia harbor lights at night. The mountains silhoutted against the twilight sky are in the neighboring country of Chile. 
It didn't take long for Paul and I to start acting like dorks. As far as I know, the "cookie monster face" sweat stains on Paul's shirt were entirely intentional. 
Paul offering our new pal, Blacky the dog (named for his striking white fur) cigarettes? Actually, Blacky was vigorously playing with the discarded package before we arrived so his addication to cigarette (boxes) isn't our fault. Blacky pretty much ruled, as he followed us up the road for most of our hike, then ran back down and found other people to pal around with. Good ambassador that Blacky, I miss him. 
Summer in Ushuaia reminds me of winter in Colorado! Paul is hiking up one of the many peaks that surround the town. 
Deb strikes an explorer's pose at the saddle of our Ushuaia mountain hike.
And back in town...
Here I am counseling one of the unfortunate prisoners in Ushuaia's prison museum (note the similarity to the photo on the wall). My advice to him was to grow longer sideburns and stop acting so wooden. 
Hey, check it out! Paul finds a one-up mushroom head on the graffiti walls.
Finally, a little bit of the first "wildlife" in town...
How much is that kitten in the window?
My canine pal who was at the B&B "Posada del fin del mundo" with us.
Finally, a striking black cat is always good luck (in my book).Next up, the first week on the ship and yes, penguin pictures. More penguins than you can shake a stick at and trust me, most of you can shake a stick at a lot of penguins.
