Antarctica Post 1: Starting at the End of the World
Monday, February 23, 2009
The night before departing for Antarctica, I lay awake in bed trying to wrap my mind around the journey that was less than 12 hours away. I had purposely kept a majority of the anticipated experiences a mystery so that the Antarctic world could unfold on its own terms, without preconceptions. A small part of me knew that it would be difficult to be in such an incredible environment "on leash" so to speak. When I was in the Arctic 4 years ago, the mountains and glaciers beckoned with a barely irresistible allure that still finds its way into my dreams. Antarctica promised the same brand of magic; a world seldom trod, raw and wild, beautiful and malicious. Most appealing is the fact this remote land remains uncultivated by men's spiritual and industrial ambitions. Here is a land unchallenged by civilization, religion and nationalism. Even more so than the Arctic regions, wildlife is truly king. Without analyzing the details, I was ready to be a respectful guest to a realm barely defined by humans.

Before long, I was in transit on an epic series of flights that spanned half the globe. With each leg, I was reminded that I clearly to work for one of the coolest companies on Earth, Natural Habitat Adventures. They were sending me on this monumental adventure on the company dollar, a perk that fits my style way more than casual Friday. Our Antarctica expedition is one of our premier trips and I was psyched to have it as my inaugural company adventure.

Ushuaia, Argentina - Where the Antarctic adventure begins!When all the spine bending, leg cramping travel was done I found myself disembarking in the secluded city of Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is a surprisingly developed city of nearly 70,000 people that defines itself as the city "del fin del mundo" -- at the end of the world. Summer was in full bloom and the lush trees and green grass offset the stark, snowy mountains that engulf the town like an overprotective mother. In the near-distance and across the harbor, the jagged peaks of Chile broke apart beams of setting sunlight, giving the city a shadowy, dreamy atmosphere. Having Ushuaia interpreted by my jet-lagged brain only added to the surreal effect.

First on the agenda was to connect to my longtime buddy Paul, who had found his way on the trip through a series of fortunate suggestions, namely if he could get his butt down here and do a little work for Natural Habitat Adventures (hereby known as NatHab) he could join the fun on the cheap. Before long, his flight was on the ground and we were reunited. Joining the mix was my fellow co-worker Deborah and her friend Glenn, both Boulderites who were along for the same ride.

We had a free day to enjoy the city before boarding the Ocean Nova (our ship and home for the better part of 3 weeks). Not missing a beat, we were able to fit in a great mountain hike, a few awesome meals and a quick tour of the urban part of the city.

The eastern mountains of Ushuaia, Argentina
The eastern mountains of Ushuaia tower over the ships in the harbor.


Ushuaia, Argentina at night. Silhoutted in the background are mountain peaks in Chile.
Ushuaia harbor lights at night. The mountains silhoutted against the twilight sky are in the neighboring country of Chile.


Jim and Paul - dorkery afoot
It didn't take long for Paul and I to start acting like dorks. As far as I know, the "cookie monster face" sweat stains on Paul's shirt were entirely intentional.


Paul offering Blacky... cigarettes?
Paul offering our new pal, Blacky the dog (named for his striking white fur) cigarettes? Actually, Blacky was vigorously playing with the discarded package before we arrived so his addication to cigarette (boxes) isn't our fault. Blacky pretty much ruled, as he followed us up the road for most of our hike, then ran back down and found other people to pal around with. Good ambassador that Blacky, I miss him.



Usuhaia hike
Summer in Ushuaia reminds me of winter in Colorado! Paul is hiking up one of the many peaks that surround the town.


Deb in Ushuaia
Deb strikes an explorer's pose at the saddle of our Ushuaia mountain hike.





And back in town...

At the prisoner museum in Ushuaia, Argentina
Here I am counseling one of the unfortunate prisoners in Ushuaia's prison museum (note the similarity to the photo on the wall). My advice to him was to grow longer sideburns and stop acting so wooden.


Paul finds a one-up!
Hey, check it out! Paul finds a one-up mushroom head on the graffiti walls.





Finally, a little bit of the first "wildlife" in town...

Kitten in the window, Ushuaia
How much is that kitten in the window?


Choc lab in Ushuaia, Argentina
My canine pal who was at the B&B "Posada del fin del mundo" with us.


Black cat
Finally, a striking black cat is always good luck (in my book).


Next up, the first week on the ship and yes, penguin pictures. More penguins than you can shake a stick at and trust me, most of you can shake a stick at a lot of penguins.

Coming soon! ANTARCTICA BLOG!!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
So my little trip summary is below, but now I've transferred my photos it's time to tell the whole story of the amazing Antarctica adventures! I'll do it in stages so you'll have something enjoyable to read everyday--and pictures tell the story so much better than just words (at least in this case). Hopefully the first entry will be up tonight.

And directly related, those of you who follow the news might have heard a certain passenger ship has run aground in Antarctica. It just so happened to be the same vessel I was on for my Antarctica trip, the M/V Ocean Nova. Here's the full story... good thing I wasn't on this voyage! Even if the ship gets unmoored, the rest of the adventure is ruined for the poor people who paid big bucks to see Antarctica...

Anyhow, more to come.

Return From the Antarctic
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Yes, yes pictures coming soon I promise! Here's one I poached off of Paul's facebook page--

Believe it or not, none of this is photoshopped -- more to come later!

So I have safely returned in Boulder after an amazing three-week adventure to the remote lands of the southern hemisphere. I'll give a big old photo show post soon, but I'll summarize the basics here.

I met up with Paul in the Argentine town of Ushuaia, a town that prides itself on being the farthest south city in the world (with a sizable population of about 70,000). We soon teamed up with Deborah (my co-worker at NHA) and her friend Glen and set off to hike and explore the region prior to getting on the ship.

Soon enough we were aboard the Ocean Nova and hit the open water, bound for the Falkland Islands. I am very, very, very grateful that the medications I took worked against seasickness--I ended up feeling relatively fine the whole trip. Groggy here and there but otherwise, no major issues. A strain of flu also surfaced and knocked a few folks down for a day, but luckily I wasn't affected.

The open water voyages between destinations took about 2 days apiece and were not terribly eventful. When we finally reached the Falklands Islands, we got our first taste of the amazing world of the south Atlantic. Again, more on the destinations later--but soon enough, we chugged off to South Georgia, which was the highlight of the trip for me.

South Georgia is unlike any landscape I've seen before--enormous and jagged mountains erupting from the earth, all adorned with cracked glaciers and hanging walls of ice. The few safe beaches and harbors were used in whaling days and a handful of small outposts remain.

After visiting the coolest hotspots in SG, we made a special visit to the South Orkney Islands. The South Orkney chain is not only in the middle of nowhere, it is one of the least populated places on Earth. The Brits maintain a part-time base of around ten people at Signy Station (which we visited) and the Argentines have a naval base of roughly 25 men on the opposite side of the chain.

From there, we finally made landfall on Antarctica via the Antarctic Peninsula. We made 3 continental landings as well as several island landings in the area, all were spectacular and teeming with a variety of wildlife. After 3 days of adventures, it was back to Ushuaia via the dreaded Drake Passage, which ended up being only mildly shaky.

When all was said and done, it was an epic 26 hour travel day to get home but it all went well. So that's the super condensed version, get ready for the stories soon :)


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